Sunday, August 16, 2009

So What AM I Doing Here???


A cold bucket bath – bargaining with a taxi driver – pit latrines – walking 200 yards to GET to the pit latrine – eating Fufu with Okra stew with my fingers out of a communal bowl with 3 other people – seeing women carrying heavy loads of firewood, water, goods for sale, and so many other things on their head – going weeks without seeing another white person – seeing the most beautiful colors in what was unfamiliar clothing – actually seeing the Milky Way clearly along with a zillion stars – knowing that EVERY day will be 100 degrees and there is no A/C – watching baby goats play in the most joyful way – being greeted by just about EVERYBODY when you walk down the street – never hearing an airplane, helicopter, or train – living without DVD’s, TV, movies, bowling, golf, or fast food – walking in a stately procession with 20 Chiefs enroute to the weekly Chiefs’ meeting.

These are just a few of Life’s events that started out 2 years ago as “experiences”, as in, “Now THAT was an experience!” Then all those individual experiences began to blend into a grand adventure. Before I knew it, that adventure had become simply my life. Now, and I say this with some sadness, it has all become part of the routine of my day. Which is not to say that I don’t still appreciate the joy and the beauty that I see around me OR that I don’t mutter under my breath at times about the uncomfortable things, but it’s no longer the same as it was when I first experienced these things.

Think of it as dating. Remember the glorious excitement and wonderful discoveries at the beginning? You may still love the person after 5 years or 50 years. In fact, the love may be much deeper and more significant than it ever was when you were in the early days. But the feeling can never be the same in the sense of the discovery of newness. What was once strange and/or exotic or simply unknown and is now known cannot become unknown again, no matter how wonderful (or awful) it may be.

This is what truly sets Peace Corps apart from most, if not all, of the other organizations working to help developing countries. You can’t understand a culture during a two week vacation or even a 3-6 month working assignment. And you don’t get to really get the pulse of a village by living in a condo in the big city and visiting the site in an air conditioned SUV 1-2 days/week. This is not to suggest that other NGO’s and governmental organizations aren’t doing good things. Obviously they are and Peace Corps relies heavily on good working relationships with many of them. After all, Peace Corps brings no money to the table, although it takes over a year living in the village to convince them that you’re not rich and do not have the means to fund a library, high school, futbol (read “soccer”) field, and bowling alley (OK – nobody in Daboya has asked me for a bowling alley but it sounds like a neat idea). So how do we make a difference? By blending into the community and discovering from the inside what they REALLY need and want and will support. Then, a PC Volunteer (PCV) can go to work and find ways, many include NGO’s and government organizations, to fund these projects, help to supervise both the external parties and the village people involved, and train local personnel in everything from tree planting to annual reports so that the project becomes sustainable long after the foreign faces and accents are gone from the community.

A tourist gets the “experience”. A 3-6 month NGO volunteer gets the adventure. But only people like missionaries, those who move to a country to live there, and PCV’s get to make a new culture part of their lives and established routines. I’ve had my ups and downs here (and thanks to all of you who have supported me in SO many ways to ease the way through those “downs”) but I am very glad that I got to move through the whole cycle to come beyond “me and those interesting people” to simply “us” and having “my living quarters” morph into “my home”.

And, when all goes well, there might, or might not, be something tangible to show for our efforts. In the case of our tourism efforts in Daboya, we actually now have a building (thanks primarily to Nature Conservation Resource Center and funding from the European Union). So feast your eyes (if I can get the photo to download properly) on Daboya’s new Visitors’ Centre!! We still have some landscaping to do and the signage isn’t up yet but we are open for business so ya’ll come!! We can share a bowl of banku with groundnut stew or, if you’re a wussy, I’ll make you a fruit salad and tuna sandwich!


24 comments:

Tom & Deborah Starrs said...

Wow! Larry, this has to be one of your most provocative & evocative posts to your blog yet! Thank you, my friend, for taking the time to write and to upload photos. We love hearing about your adventures, and your life. (And it is wonderful to have a record of your moving past the honeymoon phase right here online!)

Those of us who have it easy -- like having AC and getting to eat with two hands whenever we want -- were wondering if PCVs very often "re-up" when their two-year service contract ends, or is returning to the place from whence you came (fka home) mandatory?

--Tom (& Deborah)

Carl Hammerdorfer said...

Hi Larry. I'm an rpcv from Mali (88to 90) and I really miss a good bucket bath.

On another topic, I travel to Ghana from time to time and have been speaking with a guy there about setting up an artist's cooperative for the purpose of selling art in the US, Europe and Ghana.

Do you know how I might connect to a PCV in Accra that could help these artists? I can possibly help on this end by getting product into galleries or on sale through other channels, but these guys are going to need help on the ground with business formation, management, marketing etc.

Let me know if you can think of anyone who might be a fit.

I was also a PC Country Director in Bulgaria and now run a program in sustainable development at colorado state university. So this is not my full time pursuit, but rather something I may be able to help with from my end.

thanks, Larry. And enjoy those bucket baths.

Anonymous said...

Yippee! A whole, beautiful building!! Loved reading your post. The reflective quality was beautiful and well done. You have given me a taste of your experience! Keep writing...when the opportunity presents.
Hugz,
Christy

larryp said...

Hi Carl - Thanks for checking out my blog site. I think you have a great idea. Currently there are no PCV's in the Greater Accra Region and I'm drawing a blank as to who I could hook you up with but I'm on my way to my COS conference where there will be 30 other bright minds. I'll make an announcement and see if anyone comes up with any ideas. Hope we can help you pull this together.

Thanks for your PC service and your current work at CSU.

larryp said...

Hi Tom (&Deborah) - Thanks for being consistent followers of and contributers to this site. I always love hearing from you. As to your question, you can "re-up" for one year (or less) at the end of your term and there are many who do. Others go home and reapply for a new 2 year stint in a different region of the world. Still others come back and do it again 30 years later although that wouldn't work too well for me!! Some stay on in a different position kinda like a manager. Still others go back to the States and go to work for the PC administratively (which I am considering). So....lots of possibilities. Thanks for asking.

Anonymous said...

Hi Larry.

You wrote a letter to Carmella in San Diego. She is no longer living at her current address. Thought I'd let you know. Best and take care.

larryp said...

Carl - I have three different possibilities for your projected business. Send me an email direct at larry.pearlman@yahoo.com and I'll send you their email addresses.

Tessa - Thanks for letting me know that Carmella has moved. I'll try to find her when I get back to the States. Thanks for the work you are doing at the no-kill animal shelter.

brazza said...

Carl and Larry - I can think of a couple of Colorado boys who might fit the bill: William and Stuart Dinwoodie, who have a long history of going to West Africa in association with their love for native percussion and rhythms. Larry - you may know Will and Stu. If useful I can provide you with emails and intros.

larryp said...

Brazza - I am sorry I never replied to your comment. For some reason, I never even saw it until now. Not sure you will get this but I at least wanted to thank you for your suggestion. I know Don Dimwoodie - related to William and Stuart? I never heard again from Carl so I don't know if he found what he was looking for. I hope he did.
Larry P.

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